"Better Felt than Telt": Exploring the origins of the Hawick Common Riding.

Introduction

There is never a bad time to pay a visit to the Scottish Borders, but from now until its culmination at the end of the first full week in August, if you are looking to immerse yourself in true Border's history and culture, this has to be the best!  I am talking of course about the Civic Week festivals celebrated each year in towns throughout our region which are accompanied by the traditional "Common Ridings".    

This week Alastair Redpath of the Community Group "Project Hawick" explains a little about the history that forms the basis of these traditions, and introduces the "Borderer"to whom the bond of kinship and family far outweighed that of nationality, and gave us the words blackmail and bereaved!

More information on all the Border Festivals for 2015 can be found here:-
http://returntotheridings.co.uk/events/

Blog

Hawick Common Riding is the first and most ancient of the Border festivals, being celebrated each year in early June. A mixture of horse riding, pageantry, charity and a fair consumption of alcohol, Hawick’s premier tourist attraction might at first glance appear peculiar to anyone not initiated in its traditions. This is however a gross over-simplification of what the Common Riding achieves and what it means to so many people. In this article Project Hawick aims to explore the origins and traditions of the Common Riding and offer some insight into what it means to be a Teri (a native of Hawick, Scotland). Please note that this is by no means a definitive history, but one that cherry picks interesting tidbits of information to provide one flavour of interpretation.

Hawick Common Riding 1907

At the ‘hedge’ of the known World.

The various events and traditions that are associated with the Common Riding have been added to and evolved over time, to create a unique ceremony. Looking into the history and lineage, there is no single point of origin, but several.

Hawick itself is a town of great natural beauty set within the Border region of Scotland. Nestled among rolling hills sculpted by the last great Ice Age, it sits at the confluence of the River Teviot and Slitrig Water. The undulating terrain has over time given up its secrets, revealing a cluster of ancient hill forts and scattered Roman connections. The Romans created an advance post at Trimontium, near Melrose, and a signal station on nearby Ruberslaw, but never ventured beyond a temporary camp at Eastcote, two miles east of the town. It is widely held that the current settlement was founded in the 12th century, when the Anglo-Norman Lovel family was granted lands by King David I. Their primary residence came to be at Castle Cary in Somerset, but they established a ‘motte and bailey’ castle in Hawick - a fortification with a palisaded wooden keep on a raised earthwork, surrounded by an enclosed courtyard, protective ditch and a small settlement of houses and farm buildings. Indeed a popular theory as to the origin of the name ‘Hawick,’ is that it derives from the Old English words ‘haga’ – hedged and ‘wic’ - dwelling. The Chronicle of Melrose later details the dedication of the Church of the Holy Mary in 1214, from which St. Mary’s Kirk can claim an 800 year lineage today.

Hawick Town Hall courtesy of Undiscovered Scotland.

The medieval village was often overshadowed by its near neighbours, great Border Abbey towns like Melrose, until a royal charter created Hawick a Burgh of Barony in 1511. This allowed the settlement to grow and hold weekly markets. The Town Charter of 1537, afforded by Sir James Douglas (7th Baron of Hawick), noted that the settlement had grown in size, comprising 110 houses, a manor house, church and mill. These rights were confirmed in another royal charter of 1540 (by the infant Mary, Queen of Scots), with the Burgh’s municipal privileges surviving relatively intact until the eighteenth century.

Bringing this into sharper focus, the lawlessness of the reiving age necessitated that the town’s boundaries were ridden by young Burgesses on horseback. They would inspect their Burgh's common land to check that neighbouring landowners had not encroached its boundary. The people needed this 'commonty' to graze livestock and grow harvests to survive and prosper, so any unlawful houses, walls or crops were destroyed. Hawick’s Common at one time stretched to some 1549 acres, past Ca’ Knowe to Troutlawford. Local incorporated tradesmen, including the weavers, tailors, hammermen, skinners, fleshers, shoemakers and bakers, all took part in the Common Riding according to written evidence. Though many of Hawick’s trades were eventually disbanded, Selkirk Common Riding retains this link – each having their own colour to preserve tradition. Riding the Marches flourished in Glasgow, Edinburgh, Aberdeen, Stirling, Dundee, Inverness and Arbroath between the 16th and 18th centuries too, but they endured in the Borders long after they ceased to be essential.

A period of great unrest followed in the time of the Stewart Kings in Scotland and the Tudor Dynasty in England. Situated in the heart of the debatable lands, Hawick often paid a heavy price during the time of the Border ‘reivers’ (from the Old Scots ‘to steal’), being razed to the ground on more than one occasion. To the average citizen, the medieval village must have felt like the edge of the known World, often described as Scotland’s own Wild West. The ranks of the notorious Border reivers consisted of both Scottish and English families, and they raided the entire border country without regard to their victims' nationality, paying heed only to their own skewed codes of honour and family allegiances. Numerous stone fortifications were built to protect the surrounding land and its people, including Drumlanrig’s Tower – the vaulted portion of which is the town’s oldest building.

A great division of the Common took place in 1777, the Duke of Buccleuch laying claim to over 456 acres (over a third) of the town’s land. An offshoot of this was that Hawick’s remaining Common was legally mapped out and secured for the first time. Indeed the Hawick Common was still fiercely protected by pistol until 1784. Though it was no longer deemed necessary to ride the boundaries, Hawick is forever indebted to the individuals who chose to continue the tradition. The insecurity of life during Hawick’s formation endowed the local community with an independent identity, loyalty, and rivalry, and asserted its inhabitants with a fierce civic pride. 

1514 Monument, known locally as "Ken the Horse" Picture courtesy of Borders Journeys

 But why Ken?  Find out here..  http://www.kenthehorse.co.uk/why-ken/

1514 and the Battle of Hornshole

Hawick’s cultural epoch can arguably be traced back to 1514, when the settlement's young men or ‘Callants’ were called to arms to defeat a marauding band of English invaders. After the Battle of Flodden the previous year, around a third of the Scottish army had been killed (upwards of 10,000 men), making the Borders extremely vulnerable to attack by English forces. Almost all able bodied men from Hawick, aged from sixteen to sixty, had been killed in action. Prior to the Battle of Hornshole, there was another instance of local heroism. In November 1513, a large raiding party led by Lord Dacre was apprehended on the Fodderlee Burn near Bonchester. Though there were said to be 4000 horsemen and 400 bowmen set on reiving cattle and supplies, a hardy band of locals chased and harried Lord Dacre’s men through the valley.

History rarely records such losses, but Dacre was to return to the area on a speculative raid in May 1514. The raiding party had recently laid waste to towers, villages and houses across the West and Middle Marches, including Caerlanrig, Alemoor Tower and Ashkirk. Warning beacons would have been lit across region to forewarn of further attacks and Lord Dacre would have been keen to return home in one piece. Recent research has shown that the party did not intend to attack Hawick directly, but rather camp at Trows (near Hornshole), as it was on a well-worn route to the south, via Midshiels ford and Cavers.

Prior to their arrival, the Hawick Magistrates called a meeting of the town’s inhabitants and proposed that the enemy be resisted at any cost and the town defended to the last – “aye defend your rights and common” still reflects this sentiment today. Around two hundred of Hawick’s youth were armed with swords, dirks, pikes, bows and arrows and set off for Trows. In the early hours of the next morning the English camp was caught by surprise and a massacre ensued. The Callants returned to the town with a captured pennant raised on high, belonging to the Priory of Hexham and comprising the colours of today’s Hawick Common Riding - gold on royal blue.

Unveiling of new Statue in 2014 - Picture courtesy of ITV Borders

It is important to note that modern commemorations of this event do not celebrate an act of brutal violence, nor do they revel in spilt English blood. Rather they celebrate the act of youthful bravery against the threat of almost certain death and the destruction of a community. With each passing year, Hawick’s new Cornet embodies these values. Last year, as part of the 500th anniversary of the event, a stunning £80,000 bronze artwork was unveiled at Tower Knowe. It depicts five figures, including a young Callant raising the captured Abbot of Hexham's banner, following the Battle of Hornshole. Quincentenary Cornet Ross Gibson unveiled the new statue before a large crowd on Common Riding Thursday, after a grand re-enactment of the battle which involved over 1,500 local school children.

The Big Eight

Most people associate the beginning of the Common Riding with the Picking Night in May. However, a Cornet is selected around the end of January on the advice of the previous two Cornets. There are few rules to be followed, but it is imperative that they were born in Hawick or registered in the district by parents that live locally. He must be considered someone that can dutifully carry out the role to the satisfaction of townspeople, an excellent horseman and be unmarried (to reflect the young Callants that returned from the Battle of Hornshole).

The Cornet Elect (as they are known until Picking Night) then selects an Acting Senior Magistrate, which is usually a mature friend of good local standing. This person also represents the Magistrates and Burgesses of Hawick, a role which has been purely ceremonial since the old system of local government was disbanded in the 1970s. Before there was a Provost, the Senior Magistrate was the highest elected official in the town and they often participated in the Riding of the Marches. Prior to the Picking Night, the Acting Senior Magistrate and the two previous Cornets (known as the Right and Left Hand Man, harking back to old battle formations) must visit over 80 local landowners to arrange that year’s ride-outs, routes and obstacles.

Singing the Song 1914

A Cornet’s Lass, often misunderstood as a female placeholder, is chosen by the Cornet. She performs a great deal of important duties, ceremonies and visits throughout her year. An Acting Mother is also appointed to provide additional support and guidance. They attend the Ex-Cornet's Lasses and Ex-Acting Mothers Association Dinner where they are each presented with their Association badges. The Acting Mother position became officially recognised in 2003.  In 2008 a Bright Eyed Daughters organisation was formed, responding to the need to revitalise and enhance the knowledge of both schoolchildren and the townsfolk of Hawick about the customs and traditions of Hawick Common Riding.

2015 Cornet - Gregor J D Hepburn

The official election of the Cornet takes place on the first Wednesday of May, originally to coincide with meeting of the auld Town Council. A large gathering usually waits at the Cornet’s house, including Ex-Cornets, Lasses, friends, family and supporters. A letter is sent from the Honorary Provost to the Cornet, inviting him to take on the role. It is directly hand delivered by Halberdiers to the accompaniment of the Drums & Fifes band. This ancient band is composed of fifes (small, high-pitched flutes) and wooden rope tension snare and bass drums.  The band plays a significant role at many of the ceremonies associated with the Common Riding. 

Often referred to as the 'Cornet's band', they do not play officially outside of Common Riding season. The first recorded Hawick fifer is at the 1797 Common Riding, although individual Drummers were employed much earlier than that. The band itself (with at least two drummers and two fifers) can be traced back to at least 1823.

The Cornet is then revealed to the waiting crowd and walks the route of the town’s old ports, usually with a crowd of local children. Before entering the Town Hall for a ‘Congratulatory Smoker’, he sings a song or two and throws money and small photos of himself to the crowd (known as a strive, or a scramble).

The Cornet, his Right and Left Hand Man, Cornet’s Lass and two previous Lasses, Acting Mother and Acting Father are collectively known as the Big Eight.

“Safe oot, safe in”

Amid dozens of pre-arranged concerts, ‘smokers’, visits to residential homes and schools, the first organised ride-out takes place on the Saturday after Picking Night. These continue every Saturday and Tuesday until Common Riding week in early June. Tuesday ride-outs were first introduced to allow traditional shopkeepers to ‘rally roond’ their Cornet, whilst mill workers would attend on the Saturday. Depending on the number of weeks in the year, locations for the ride-outs vary. Since the inception of the modern ride-out in 1891 (to Lilliesleaf), a cavalcade of mounted supporters traditionally follow the Principals to Bonchester Bridge, Roberton, Mosspaul (twice) and Denholm. Other locations have included Cogsmill, Philhope Bridge, Priesthaugh, Bogliebarns, Cavers, Harden House, Hermitage, Newmill, Skelfhill, Southfield, Teindside, Teviotdale Lodge, Teviothead, West Buccleuch and Wolfelee.

The "Snuffing" 1910

Each ride-out starts with a muster in Allars Crescent, leaving from Backdamgate. The Right-Hand Man acts as front marshal and the Left-Hand Man as back marshal, to keep order in the cavalcade and provide assurance to younger supporters. There are usually lots of cars packed with picnics which go to meet the riders at the appointed location, and a big sing-song reception. On returning to the town, the cavalcade is usually greeted by streets lined with supporters, who wish the cavalcade “safe oot, safe in” on each ride-out. Principals dismount at the Backdamgate and carry children on their shoulders round to the steps of the Tower where there is a strive and more song singing.

Mosspaul is a special ride-out for many Teries during the Common Riding. After helping to revive the fortunes of the former coaching inn in the late 19th century, the local landowner invited the Cornet to ride over the hills to Mosspaul where he would be welcomed fondly. As a result, on Tuesday 28th May 1901, Cornet Sutherland, his Right and Left hand men, Acting Father JED Murray (widely considered to be the ‘father’ of the modern Common Riding) and other mounted supporters, set out to become the first modern day Mosstroopers. The tradition survives to this day and is organised by the Ancient Order of the Mosstroopers.

Chase 1910

On the Thursday prior to Common Riding week a Chase is held, which commemorates the galloping Callants that returned from Hornshole with the captured flag. Before the development of housing in the West End, it was held from the foot of the Loan to Haggis Ha' Brae. After two spectator deaths in 1868 and 1876, it was moved to the Nipknowes. In the 19th century, there also used to be another Chase from the Cross Wynd to the Wellogate. Riders gallop at full speed up the Nipknowes to the cheers of well-wishers along the road side. From there they head to the Hut - Hawick's ceremonial seat of celebration and camaraderie - at St. Leonard's Farm. Tickets for the Friday Hut (available in limited numbers to non-riders) are always highly sought after. The building itself was constructed in 1924, following a wet Common Riding the previous year, and extended in 1964. The Hut is renowned for passionate and rousing speeches, Common Riding songs and the ready imbibing of alcoholic drinks! The farmer at St. Leonard’s traditionally provides the unique potion of ‘curds and cream’ to the riders as a repast. During the Thursday Night Hut the Acting Senior Magistrate officially becomes the Acting Father.

Common Riding Week

Common Riding week proper begins on Kirking Sunday, when the Cornet and his party march from the Town Hall to a local kirk of his choice. It is during this ceremony that the official Cornet’s tie is worn for the first time. A cracking display of these ties can be seen in the JED Murray suite at the Border Club, North Bridge Street.  In the afternoon, the Principals make their way to the Lest We Forget monument at Hornshole, where a wreath is lain in remembrance of the Battle of Hornshole. This duty is carried out with great humility by the Cornet’s Lass. Built in 1901 on a small piece of land near Hornshole (gifted by Captain Palmer-Douglas of Cavers), this monument was paid for with money left over from subscriptions to the 'Return to Hawick' painting. It was replaced at a cost of £3000 in time for the recent Quincentenary celebrations. Today the surrounding floral displays are tended to by Hawick's Bright Eyed Daughters. To end Kirking Sunday, St. Leonard’s race course at the Mair is inspected before that week’s races.

There are further Chases on the Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday morning, giving riders the chance to hone their equestrian skills. On the Wednesday night an Exiles Dinner is held for Teries that live out with a certain distance of Hawick.

Common Riding Thursday

Common Riding 1935

The Thursday morning begins at 6am and is thought to be when the Riding of the Marches traditionally took place. Another fervent Chase and visit to the Hut follows and the riders complete a lap of the race course before returning to the town. The Cornet carries the ‘unbussed’ flag for the first time here. This is displayed for all to see from the Town Hall’s balcony. Aside from a few of the ceremonies mentioned previously (such as the Picking Night), all events up until 6pm on the Thursday are considered unofficial treasured aspects of the Common Riding. The clock at St. Mary’s strikes 6pm and the Drums & Fifes march around the oldest areas of the Burgh. At the Town Hall, the flag is later ‘bussed’ by the Cornet’s Lass who ties ribbons to it. This tradition harks back to decorating weapons and armour for luck prior to heading into battle.

The Honorary Provost takes great pride in charging the Cornet to “ride the meiths and marches of the Commonty of Hawick according to ancient custom”. The main speech at this ceremony is given by the Chief Guest, usually a Teri who has excelled in their chosen field. A proclamation is read out from the balcony of the Town Hall, where upon the Cornet himself ‘busses’ the 1514 Memorial. This ceremony is usually one of the best attended. He then leads a walk around the town, which includes the once separate village of Wilton 

Common Riding Friday

The penultimate day of the Common Riding begins at 6am with the rousing sound of the Drums & Fifes and the bells of St. Mary’s Kirk. After this a peculiar event is held at the modern day Heart of Hawick: the Snuffing.  This unique tradition takes place at the site of the Auld Brig, an ancient spanning of the Slitrig that was demolished in 1851. Snuff is dispensed to the waiting crowd in an old horn mull, harkening back to an old social custom of passing round the snuff box during convenient halts in Common Riding proceedings. Various ceremonies continue throughout the day, with a Cornet’s Breakfast (at a local hostelry) and a Provost’s Breakfast (in the Lesser Town Hall). Mounted supporters of the Cornet then gather at the Backdamgate and have oak leaves pinned to their outfits, the significance of which has been lost to time. The ‘Auld Song’ is sung from the steps of Drumlanrig’s Tower with great gusto, this being the oldest remaining building in the town and the oldest lyrical connection to the Riding of the Marches. 

Following an event filled morning; the Acting Father gets to take hold of the flag after a Chase up the Nipknowes and a final visit to the Hut. More ‘curds and cream’ are served up to riders along with Hawick’s own tipple of Rum and Milk. It is reputed that rum and milk was originally given as a medicinal drink to one of the members of the Drums & Fifes who was feeling a little ‘under the weather’ one Common Riding morning. This caught on with the rest of the band and soon spread to the Common Riding supporters. Today this unique beverage attracts significant sales for Guyana’s Skipper Rum!

Off to Ride The Common

Getting down to more serious business, the cavalcade heads off to ride the ‘Commonty of Hawick’, with a sod of soil ceremonially cut at Ca’ Knowe, the furthest extremity of the modern town boundaries. It is here that the town’s Burgess Roll is read out - once an important task to take stock of those that regularly attended the Common Riding, but now a ceremonial duty in its own right. The cavalcade then heads to St. Leonard’s race course for a day of ‘flapping’ (as horse racing is known locally), picnics, socialising and a great reaffirmation of community spirit. The race course opened officially in 1854, and has been used exclusively for the Common Riding races since 1855. It is one of the highest courses in Britain. 

At 4pm the Cornet and his mounted supporters make their way to Myreslawgreen, whilst the Big Four make their way to the Coble Pool. Here the Cornet dips the flag in the river Teviot three times to mark the former boundary between Hawick and Wilton. The Friday evening draws to a close with song singing at Mill Path and the Common Riding Dinner and Ball at the Town Hall.

Handing Back Ceremony 2014

Common Riding Saturday

Heading from the Town Hall in the wee hours, the Big Four climb the town’s Moat to sing ‘Teribus’ and after a few precious hours sleep muster at Drumlanrig’s Tower for another solemn ceremony. A wreath is lain at the Glorious Dead memorial at Wilton Lodge Park in commemoration of Hawick’s war dead. Respects are also paid by the gathering crowd before making their way to the Mair for another day of flapping, picnics (weather permitting) and socialising. When the races are finished, the Cornet leads the cavalcade back to the town for the Handing Back ceremony. 

The Big Four march the flag to the Community Council Chamber in the Town Hall and the Cornet returns it “unsullied and unstained”. What follows is traditionally an emotional moment for all involved, as the Cornet displays the flag on the balcony. It is placed in a holder and kissed by the Cornet, Right Hand Man, Left Hand Man and Acting Father, whose terms of office have now come to an end. ‘Invocation’ is played by the Saxhorn Band and the gathered crowd gives off a great cheer for a job well done, so ending another Hawick Common Riding. In recent years the Principals have made their way along to Tower Knowe for a final rendition of the ‘Bull Reel’ dance and even a pillow fight!

Common Riding Saturday

“Better Felt than Telt”

The Hawick Common Riding is often misinterpreted as a misogynistic and archaic tradition. This interpretation does little to acknowledge the great effort of hundreds of volunteers, thousands of children and tens of thousands of adults that aim to produce a memorable experience for all involved. In recent years especially there have been wonderful charitable events tied into the more tried and tested traditions, including a fundraiser for the Scottish Ambulance Service at the Northhouse ride-out this month. Great strides have been taken to modernise the Common Riding, whilst taking great care to appreciate its roots, thus ensuring it can be enjoyed by people for many more years to come. But what use is telling you this? As we say in Hawick, it’s “better felt than telt”…

Sources:

·         Reflections O’ Hawick (2015), Ed. Ian W. Landles, Alan G. Brydon
·         Hawick Through Time (2014), Alastair M. Redpath
·         Hawick From Old Photographs (2015), Alastair M. Redpath
·         A Hawick Word Book (2002 edition), Prof. Douglas Scott
·         http://www.hawickcallantsclub.co.uk/
·         http://www.brighteyeddaughters.co.uk/
·         http://projecthawick.forumatic.com/

Links

Keep up to date with everything that is happening Hawick, and show Alastair and "Project Hawick" your support at:-

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ProjectHawick
Twitter: https://twitter.com/projecthawick
YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/projecthawick
Project Hawick Forum: http://projecthawick.forumatic.com/

For those of you with ancestors from the area, why not combine your visit with a spot of family history research in the archives at Hawick Heritage Hub!
http://www.heartofhawick.co.uk/info/1/about_us/12/heritage_hub

Well that is you "telt"!~ so if you would like to experience the Border Festivals first hand and need some further assistance please contact either Alastair or myself, we are here to help you get the most from your visit to our unique Border region.